I've stumbled across this post from the renowned _why, and decided to try it.
On the ubuntu 8.10, the steps to try it out were:
apt-get install xulrunner-1.9-gnome-support
(NB: I think xulrunner by itself might be fine as well, but "gnome support" seemed like a good thing to have. Maybe it's the Xmas mood that is at fault)
git clone git://repo.or.cz/conkeror.git
The ability to use only the keyboard to meaningfully operate the browser is pretty refreshing.
The only tough part is that I use the vi as opposed to emacs, so the keyboard bindings are a bit unusual, but maybe it will help me to get the emacs keys into motoric memory - something I tried to do a few times in the past without much success - after 18 years of using vi, one can imagine that's tough - and I've been always falling back to where I am more productive without letting the memory settle.
update: nope, looks like motoric memory has persisted, and actually I ended up customizing the keybindings, rather than reprogramming the low-level memory in the brain...
adding the following into ~/.conkerorrc so far got me going.
"go-back", $category = "Movement");
"go-forward", $category = "Movement");
define_variable("editor_shell_command", "gvim -f");